The reason for using Shibby instead of dd-wrt for the two routers is that dd-wrt for RT-N12 D1 is not very stable and router needed to be rebooted after working for a few days. Anyway, Asus provides firmware recovery utility and the router has a Broadcom CFE mini web server, which makes it easy to recover the router in case it is bricked. Check this thread: However, I can't recall how I fixed the problem.
Tomato shibby webmon password#
One problem I faced when flashing Shibby on RT-N12 D1 is password trouble. However it is working well when powered up.
WNR3500L v2 is used as openvpn client so it will be powered up when needed otherwise it is power off so I can't comment much on reliability. Shibby is stable so far for both routers, RT-N12 is running 24/7 for over half a year now and no reboot is needed so for. Both are running Shibby K26RT-N, as you can see Shibby is using K26, if that matters to you. My experience on Tomato Shibby is on RT-N12 D1 and WNR3500L v2. I've only just used dd-wrt so I figured it would be nice to have a chance but I didn't want to switch to something if it was just awful to use. I'm rocking an Asus N66U which is broadcom based so it might be worth a try I guess. So you'd recommend tomato for a broadcom based chipset? Sorry for the super late reply, been out of commission due to work for a few weeks. We just do it since we do not like any restrictions enforced by stupid cocaine snorting managers the "orignal" tomatoUSB is old & abandoned tomato does client modes fine, at least the victek/shibby/toastman does, they are also the better ones to use. so unless you broke out the hex editor you had to flash dd-wrt mini build with the header first to get to tomato. Turns out they tagged the firms with a 310n header. I know just recently dealing with the wrt310n had to flash to dd-wrt first to get off stock. So what do you do? flash back to stock first? never had it brick that bad cross flashing but Im sure it has happen. It is a bad practice to flash directly from one third party firmware to another.
Tomato shibby webmon serial#
So my preference is Tomato for general home use, If I had clients I'd probably steer them toward dd-wrt unless it couldn't do something they needed, and if I was attempting a long point-to-point connection I think DD-WRT would probably get the nod.īUT, WHEN it doesn't work, and it sometimes does not, you will need a serial cable to fix it, and have to solder into the router. it may not have the bells of tomato but what it does it does well.ĭD-wrt also (and again I've not sat down and compared) appears to offer more options for tweaking protocol (a lot of which I'd need google to figure out) With that said dd-wrt seems a bit more polished, Tomato is a tad more buggy, dd-wrt could easily double as a stock firmware. I find the UI and layout to be easier to use and setup.
I've not sat down and compared dd-wrt and tomato side by side, but I usually prefer shibby flavor tomato my self. layout is the largest change it looks like from pictures. infact first im hearing of it.īut it looks like it's based off shibby releases and look pretty close to it config wise. If you're flashing via TFTP however probably a good idea to clear NVRAM / hard reset. Not to be taken as the gospel but I've cross flashed routers quite a few times, checking the CLEAR NVRAM box seems to do the trick more often then not. I knew there are nvram issues with different firmwares etc. Thanks I definitely didn't plan on making that mistake. LOM: "If you show that you have not bothered to read the forum announcements or to follow the advices in them then the level of help available for you will drop substantially, also known as Murrkf's law." If you just want a fish, wait for a fisherman who hands them out. I'm trying to teach you to fish, not give you a fish. Tomato doesn't do bridging (Client Bridge, Repeater Bridge, Repeater, Client) last time I checked. There are incompatible nvram variables that can brick your router. First thing, make SURE you don't flash directly from dd-wrt to tomato.
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